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正文 017 返场演出(第1页/共2页)

夏天的新奥尔良,闷热、潮湿、喧嚣,彻夜不眠,肆意狂欢。

从六月的初夏开始,整个北美地区爵士氛围最为浓郁的音乐节徐徐拉开盛大的序幕;到七月的盛夏巅峰,延续两周的美食狂欢节足以让任何一位老饕满载而归、乐不思蜀;最后到八月的夏末尾巴,戏剧节的登场为每一个追逐艺术的灵魂提供尽情表演的舞台。

癫狂。热闹。畅快。张扬。肆意。

这座经历2005年卡特里娜飓风摧残过后重新兴起的城市,承载着两百多年的沧桑与厚重,再次绽放出绚烂夺目的光芒,重现绰号“大快活”的风采,毋庸置疑,这就是北美大陆上最具特色也最具风情的城市,拥有自己独特的性格脾气和品格灵魂。

搭乘古老的街车沿着圣查尔斯大街从法国区往上城缓缓行驶,如同步入时光隧道,经历着短暂却坎坷的历史。

从古老优雅的法国区,到时髦年轻的美国商业区,再到宛若卡罗莱纳州查尔斯顿的橡树大道,还有上个世纪初一度风靡的维多利亚风格建筑……这些不同的语言、文化、时尚和信仰紧密交织在一起,最终孕育出狂欢节、爵士乐、颓废风,演变出如此独一无二的新奥尔良风情。

如今城市中央的波旁大街,声色犬马、不分种族与年轻、不分性别与阶级,夜夜笙歌,以此为,往北越过圣安大道的紫色分界线,就能够看到形形色色的人群以“被放逐的拉菲特咖啡馆”为中心载歌载舞,绚烂缤纷的色彩将夜色点缀得惊心动魄。

再继续往北走,穿过埃斯普拉纳达大道,就能够远离狂欢节的喧闹、音乐节的盛情,进入只有本地人才知晓的秘密爵士乐中心马里尼区,经过那些承载着历史重量的书店、服装店、刺青店,一个转弯,一排色彩鲜艳、形貌各异的小酒馆栉比林立。

个性张扬、特立独行的年轻人站在街边吞云吐雾,靠着斑驳的砖墙在婉转而混乱的爵士音符中冷眼注视着往来的行人,岁月似乎就这样消融在新奥尔良盛夏夜晚的暖风之中,不远处密西西比河的奔腾声响在细细讲述着这座城市这片土地那些被遗忘被淹没的传说。

“正午”酒吧,就坐落于此。

墨黑色的外墙之上描绘着稀奇古怪的涂鸦,大幅小幅、黑白彩色、绘画签名等等应有尽有,杂乱无章地分布排列,却在日积月累之中构建出无法计划也无法复制的独特美感,记载着酒吧的并不那么悠久的历史。

纵览整个北美大陆,爵士已经渐渐式微,就连曾经大街小巷流淌着优雅爵士的纽约也没有能够避免,新奥尔良也就成为了爵士乐的最后一片乐土,大街小巷都能够感受到穿行于指间、流淌于发丝的爵士。

不过,爵士并不是这座城市的唯一标志,热情奔放、文化多元的克里欧人敞开怀抱欢迎所有音乐爱好者的到来,这片土地的血液里就流淌着金色的乐符,日日夜夜的载歌载舞足以让每一位游客流连忘返。

“正午”酒吧就是如此,除了爵士乐队之外,登台演出的表演者丰富
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